{"id":27879,"date":"2022-11-10T13:06:01","date_gmt":"2022-11-10T13:06:01","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ferrerysaret.com\/?p=27879"},"modified":"2025-11-26T15:59:27","modified_gmt":"2025-11-26T15:59:27","slug":"kazakhstan-un-pais-per-descobrir","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ferrerysaret.com\/ca\/kazakhstan-un-pais-per-descobrir\/","title":{"rendered":"Kazakhstan, un pa\u00eds per descobrir"},"content":{"rendered":"[vc_row type=\u00bbin_container\u00bb full_screen_row_position=\u00bbmiddle\u00bb column_margin=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction_tablet=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction_phone=\u00bbdefault\u00bb scene_position=\u00bbcenter\u00bb text_color=\u00bbdark\u00bb text_align=\u00bbleft\u00bb row_border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb row_border_radius_applies=\u00bbbg\u00bb overlay_strength=\u00bb0.3″ gradient_direction=\u00bbleft_to_right\u00bb shape_divider_position=\u00bbbottom\u00bb bg_image_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb][vc_column column_padding=\u00bbno-extra-padding\u00bb column_padding_tablet=\u00bbinherit\u00bb column_padding_phone=\u00bbinherit\u00bb column_padding_position=\u00bball\u00bb column_element_spacing=\u00bbdefault\u00bb background_color_opacity=\u00bb1″ background_hover_color_opacity=\u00bb1″ column_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_link_target=\u00bb_self\u00bb gradient_direction=\u00bbleft_to_right\u00bb overlay_strength=\u00bb0.3″ width=\u00bb2\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=\u00bbdefault\u00bb tablet_text_alignment=\u00bbdefault\u00bb phone_text_alignment=\u00bbdefault\u00bb bg_image_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb border_type=\u00bbsimple\u00bb column_border_width=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_border_style=\u00bbsolid\u00bb][vc_column_text]\n

Kazakhstan per Yolanda Saumell<\/h2>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Traca-traca, traca-traca… amb aquest soroll constant, met\u00e0l\u00b7lic i harm\u00f2nic no em va ser dif\u00edcil agafar el son. Em dirigia des d’Almaty a Shymkent en un vell ferrocarril d’\u00e8poca sovi\u00e8tica aprofitant les hores de la nit, i cobrir aix\u00ed els gaireb\u00e9 700 quil\u00f2metres que separen l’antiga capital del Kazakhstan amb la tercera ciutat del pa\u00eds, ja no gaire lluny de la frontera amb l’Uzbekistan.<\/p>\n

Pod\u00edem haver pres un talgo, molt m\u00e9s modern, o creuar el sud d’aquest pa\u00eds amb avi\u00f3. Per\u00f2 quan es viatja sovint, no sempre es poden escollir les hores i el mitj\u00e0 transport preferit, aix\u00ed que em vaig prendre el llarg trajecte fins a Shymkent com una nova experi\u00e8ncia en el meu afany per con\u00e8ixer millor aquesta exrep\u00fablica sovi\u00e8tica, la segona m\u00e9s extensa de l’antiga URSS despr\u00e9s de la Federaci\u00f3 Russa.[\/vc_column_text][image_with_animation image_url=\u00bb1819″ animation=\u00bbFade In\u00bb hover_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb alignment=\u00bb\u00bb border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb box_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb image_loading=\u00bbdefault\u00bb max_width=\u00bb100%\u00bb max_width_mobile=\u00bbdefault\u00bb][divider line_type=\u00bbNo Line\u00bb custom_height=\u00bb20″][vc_column_text]\n

Un pa\u00eds interior<\/span><\/h2>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Kazakhstan es troba al cor de l’\u00c0sia Central, al mateix ventre de la gran R\u00fassia. El pa\u00eds \u00e9s immens. La superf\u00edcie quintuplica la d’Espanya, tot i que els \u00fanics mars que reconeix s\u00f3n el Caspi, l’Aral i el Balkash. En realitat tres llacs tancats -en gran part d’aigua salada- que s’alimenten \u00fanicament d’uns quants rius que desguassen cada dia amb menys cabal. Els kazakhs s\u00f3n, per tant, gent d’interior i poc dotats d’aventures marineres.<\/p>\n

Com que \u00e9s un pa\u00eds tan extens, \u00e9s f\u00e0cil que aquest sigui una cosa diversa. Al nord predomina l’estepa, una immensa plana erma. A la zona central, hi ha abund\u00e0ncia de turons. El sud \u00e9s terra d’altures, amb les muntanyes Altai i Tien Shan com a massissos m\u00e9s destacats. El clima, en general, \u00e9s continental, i aix\u00f2 significa temperatures extremes a l’estiu ia l’hivern, encara que al sud, i gr\u00e0cies a l’altitud, els estius s\u00f3n una mica m\u00e9s frescos.<\/p>\n

A nivell cultural, la meitat de la gent s\u00f3n de fe musulmana -sunites- i un ter\u00e7 es declara ortodox. El 99% dels kazakhs estan alfabetitzats, i el 60% viuen a ciutats, fet que suposa la taxa m\u00e9s alta d’urbanitzaci\u00f3 entre les antigues rep\u00fabliques sovi\u00e8tiques de l’\u00c0sia Central.[\/vc_column_text][image_with_animation image_url=\u00bb1820″ animation=\u00bbFade In\u00bb hover_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb alignment=\u00bb\u00bb border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb box_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb image_loading=\u00bbdefault\u00bb max_width=\u00bb100%\u00bb max_width_mobile=\u00bbdefault\u00bb][divider line_type=\u00bbNo Line\u00bb custom_height=\u00bb20″][vc_column_text]\n

\u2026Per\u00f2 amb un bosc sota l’aigua<\/span><\/h2>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]I qu\u00e8 veure al Kazakhstan? Molt m\u00e9s del que s’ha imaginat. D’entrada, no em perdria alguns dels entorns naturals m\u00e9s sorprenents del pa\u00eds. Aix\u00f2 \u00e9s el can\u00f3 de Charyn i els llacs Kolsay. El Parc Nacional de Charyn, no gaire lluny d’Almaty, est\u00e0 travessat per un riu del mateix nom. Despr\u00e9s d’abandonar les muntanyes Tien Shan, aquest ha creat, amb el pas del temps, un incre\u00efble i bell congost que m\u00e9s d’un ha comparat amb el Grand Canyon als Estats Units. Hi predomina l’espectacularitat del paisatge. El lloc, que dubta, \u00e9s fascinant.<\/p>\n

Els llacs Kolsay, en canvi, s\u00f3n tres llacunes de car\u00e0cter alp\u00ed que estan situades al voltant dels dos mil metres d’al\u00e7ada. El color blau fosc de les aig\u00fces, i el silenci i la tranquil\u00b7litat que les envolta fan d’aquesta excursi\u00f3 un paisatge a recordar. La postal s’assembla molt a un bol de vidre, de color turquesa, al peu de grans muntanyes. A m\u00e9s, per a qui li agradi practicar el senderisme i el muntanyisme no podr\u00e0 escapar-se d’un panorama tan seductor: boscos d’arbres de fulla ampla, avets i prats t\u00edpicament alpins. Altitud, naturalesa espessa i molt d’aire fresc.<\/p>\n

Tampoc no em perdria el llac Kaindy, un id\u00edl\u00b7lic ib\u00f2 de muntanya que es va formar despr\u00e9s d’un terratr\u00e8mol el 1911. Un gran lliscament de terres va crear, per atzar, un dic natural. Successivament, l’aigua de pluja va omplir la vall i va crear el llac. El lloc \u00e9s fam\u00f3s per la quantitat d’avets morts i blanquejats que surten de l’aigua. Els arbres, juntament amb l’aigua de color turquesa, en fan espectacle incre\u00efble. La imaginaci\u00f3 encara \u00e9s m\u00e9s impressionant, ja que els arbres no s’han descompost i creen una visi\u00f3 surrealista d’un bosc sota l’aigua.[\/vc_column_text][image_with_animation image_url=\u00bb1821″ animation=\u00bbFade In\u00bb hover_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb alignment=\u00bb\u00bb border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb box_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb image_loading=\u00bbdefault\u00bb max_width=\u00bb100%\u00bb max_width_mobile=\u00bbdefault\u00bb][divider line_type=\u00bbNo Line\u00bb custom_height=\u00bb20″][vc_column_text]\n

Trio d’asos<\/span><\/h2>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Les grans urbs del pa\u00eds s\u00f3n Almaty, Shymkent i Astan\u00e0. Un trio d’asos obligat per guanyar la partida en qualsevol viatge al Kazakhstan. Astan\u00e0, la capital del pa\u00eds des del 1997, \u00e9s una ciutat una mica artificial. Sorgida al voltant d’una fortalesa russa del segle XIX, erigida per controlar els pobles turc\u00f2mans de l’\u00c0sia Central, avui \u00e9s una moderna concentraci\u00f3 urbana que supera els 700.000 habitants. Similar, com a concepte, a Dubai -per\u00f2 si tant poder- aquest any 2017 Astan\u00e0 ha albergat una Exposici\u00f3 Universal que li ha donat certa notorietat internacional.<\/p>\n

En canvi, Almaty va ser la primera metr\u00f2poli dels kazakhs i la seva capital en temps dels sovi\u00e8tics. Cal destacar la catedral ortodoxa de l\u00b4Ascensi\u00f3, el museu d\u00b4instruments musicals i el centre Sunkar, una granja av\u00edcola d\u00b4aus rapinyaires on \u00e9s possible descobrir l\u00b4incre\u00efble art de la falconeria i la ca\u00e7a del falc\u00f3.<\/p>\n

La tercera gran ciutat, ia la qual em dirigeixo, Shymkent, se situa a un centenar de quil\u00f2metres de l’Uzbekistan. \u00c9s un bon punt de partida per con\u00e8ixer Turquestan (no confondre amb el pa\u00eds Turkmenistan), un antic punt estrat\u00e8gic de la Gran Ruta de la Seda i un dels enclavaments sants de l’Islam. Des de Shymkent \u00e9s accessible tamb\u00e9 el Parc Nacional d’Aksu-Zhabagly, on hi ha algun bec que supera fins i tot els quatre mil metres d’al\u00e7ada.[\/vc_column_text][image_with_animation image_url=\u00bb1822″ animation=\u00bbFade In\u00bb hover_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb alignment=\u00bb\u00bb border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb box_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb image_loading=\u00bbdefault\u00bb max_width=\u00bb100%\u00bb max_width_mobile=\u00bbdefault\u00bb][divider line_type=\u00bbNo Line\u00bb custom_height=\u00bb20″][vc_column_text]\n

Kazakhstan \u00e9s un pa\u00eds a descobrir<\/span><\/h2>\n[\/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Kazakhstan gaudeix, en general, de bons allotjaments als principals reclams tur\u00edstics. Hi ha pres\u00e8ncia de cadenes internacionals com Radisson, Marriot, Intercontinental, Ritz Carlton i Rixos en categories luxe i Hilton. Tamb\u00e9 \u00e9s possible trobar algunes quatre estrelles interessants. Els parcs nacionals acullen, per\u00f2, allotjaments rurals de tipus familiar que resulten ser instal\u00b7lacions netes i correctes, per\u00f2 molt b\u00e0siques.<\/p>\n

La gran majoria dels cartells estan redactats majorit\u00e0riament en alfabet cir\u00edl\u00b7lic, que \u00e9s l’usat tradicionalment per les lleng\u00fces russa i kazakh. Tot i que aquesta \u00faltima t\u00e9 la particularitat de poder ser escrita tamb\u00e9 en grafia \u00e0rab, entre la minoria kazakh que resideix a la Xina, i en car\u00e0cters llatins. \u00c9s m\u00e9s. Des del passat mes d’abril del 2017, Kazakhstan ha imposat aquest alfabet com l’oficial a la rep\u00fablica, seguint el cam\u00ed de les seves terres germanes d’Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan i Azerbaidjan. Veurem, amb el pas dels anys, l\u201fimpacte real de tal mesura.<\/p>\n

L’angl\u00e8s, per cert, \u00e9s poc parlat als carrers del pa\u00eds, a les seves estacions i al mateix tren on em trobo. Per sort, o no, aquesta \u00e9s encara una\u00a0terra incognita<\/em>\u00a0per descobrir per part del turisme occidental. Potser no hi ha millor moment hist\u00f2ric com l’actual per endinsar-se en aquest pa\u00eds. No tinc cap dubte que el pa\u00eds es modernitzar\u00e0 encara m\u00e9s en els propers anys. Sense anar m\u00e9s lluny, des del gener passat ja no cal visat per accedir-hi des d’Espanya.<\/p>\n

Un murmuri em fa tornar a la realitat. El sotragueig del tren s’ha redu\u00eft. Els llums envaeixen la foscor. El ferrocarril en redueix la velocitat. Hi ha un despertar general. Estem entrant a l’estaci\u00f3 de Shymkent. S’acaba el somni? Despr\u00e9s de descobrir el sud del Kazakhstan m’esperen noves experi\u00e8ncies a l’\u00c0sia Central. Prometo anar explicant-les.[\/vc_column_text][vc_row_inner column_margin=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction_tablet=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction_phone=\u00bbdefault\u00bb text_align=\u00bbleft\u00bb][vc_column_inner column_padding=\u00bbno-extra-padding\u00bb column_padding_tablet=\u00bbinherit\u00bb column_padding_phone=\u00bbinherit\u00bb column_padding_position=\u00bball\u00bb column_element_spacing=\u00bbdefault\u00bb centered_text=\u00bbtrue\u00bb background_color_opacity=\u00bb1″ background_hover_color_opacity=\u00bb1″ column_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_link_target=\u00bb_self\u00bb gradient_direction=\u00bbleft_to_right\u00bb overlay_strength=\u00bb0.3″ width=\u00bb1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=\u00bbdefault\u00bb bg_image_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb border_type=\u00bbsimple\u00bb column_border_width=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_border_style=\u00bbsolid\u00bb][image_with_animation image_url=\u00bb265″ animation=\u00bbFade In\u00bb hover_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb alignment=\u00bbcenter\u00bb border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb box_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb image_loading=\u00bbdefault\u00bb max_width=\u00bbcustom\u00bb delay=\u00bb150″ margin_top=\u00bb15″ margin_bottom=\u00bb15″ max_width_custom=\u00bb150px\u00bb][vc_column_text]\n

Jordi Ferrer<\/p>\n[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column_inner][\/vc_row_inner][\/vc_column][vc_column column_padding=\u00bbno-extra-padding\u00bb column_padding_tablet=\u00bbinherit\u00bb column_padding_phone=\u00bbinherit\u00bb column_padding_position=\u00bball\u00bb column_element_spacing=\u00bbdefault\u00bb background_color_opacity=\u00bb1″ background_hover_color_opacity=\u00bb1″ column_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_link_target=\u00bb_self\u00bb gradient_direction=\u00bbleft_to_right\u00bb overlay_strength=\u00bb0.3″ width=\u00bb1\/3″ tablet_width_inherit=\u00bbdefault\u00bb tablet_text_alignment=\u00bbdefault\u00bb phone_text_alignment=\u00bbdefault\u00bb bg_image_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb border_type=\u00bbsimple\u00bb column_border_width=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_border_style=\u00bbsolid\u00bb][vc_raw_html]JTVCc2luZ2xlX3NpZGViYXIlNUQ=[\/vc_raw_html][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row type=\u00bbin_container\u00bb full_screen_row_position=\u00bbmiddle\u00bb column_margin=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction_tablet=\u00bbdefault\u00bb column_direction_phone=\u00bbdefault\u00bb scene_position=\u00bbcenter\u00bb text_color=\u00bbdark\u00bb text_align=\u00bbleft\u00bb row_border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb row_border_radius_applies=\u00bbbg\u00bb overlay_strength=\u00bb0.3″ gradient_direction=\u00bbleft_to_right\u00bb shape_divider_position=\u00bbbottom\u00bb bg_image_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb][vc_column column_padding=\u00bbno-extra-padding\u00bb column_padding_tablet=\u00bbinherit\u00bb column_padding_phone=\u00bbinherit\u00bb column_padding_position=\u00bball\u00bb column_element_spacing=\u00bbdefault\u00bb background_color_opacity=\u00bb1″ background_hover_color_opacity=\u00bb1″ column_shadow=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_border_radius=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_link_target=\u00bb_self\u00bb gradient_direction=\u00bbleft_to_right\u00bb overlay_strength=\u00bb0.3″ width=\u00bb1\/1″ tablet_width_inherit=\u00bbdefault\u00bb tablet_text_alignment=\u00bbdefault\u00bb phone_text_alignment=\u00bbdefault\u00bb bg_image_animation=\u00bbnone\u00bb border_type=\u00bbsimple\u00bb column_border_width=\u00bbnone\u00bb column_border_style=\u00bbsolid\u00bb][vc_column_text][\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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